Wiring colors for most motors are White = Common, Black = High, Yellow = Medium, Blue = Medium Low, Red = Low. Brown w/white tracer is for the run capacitor the same as white. Brown is for the run capacitor. If you can place the run capacitor in the equipment cabinet use the brown with the white tracer and tape off the white wire because both brown wires have 1/4" quick connectors on them. We know of an instance where someone drilled a hole in their coil just so they could fish that fourth wire instead of just using three wires (a very expensive wire).

Most fan motors have bronze sleeve bearings but can be ordered with ball bearings. Sleeve bearings will last many years but a ball bearing motor can last even longer (decades) especially in severe applications where the equipment runs continuously. Most motors with sleeve bearings will have a set of removable plugs where you can oil the motor. I recommend a few drops of SAE 20W oil NON DETERGENT (3 in 1 in the BLUE not the RED can) every year. Some OEM (original equipment manufacturer) motors do not have oil ports. If you replace a motor and it has oil ports try to place them between 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock. There is a device available that will extend the oil ports so you can reach the rear port on direct drive blowers. NEVER use WD 40 to lubricate a motor since it has little or no lubricating properties for bearings and will wash out the heavier oil. But it is good for getting stuck shafts off.

To replace a motor it is necessary to remove the blower wheel or fan blade from the motor. If the fan or blower does not come right off (sometimes it will) the best way to do this is to use a puller that will pull the hub off of the shaft. DO NOT use a hammer to try to drive the shaft though the hub, you will just distort the shaft to the point where you will have saw the shaft off or just buy a replacement fan blade for your new motor if the fan blade is in bad shape.

If you have an electrical failure where the motor smokes or stinks it is probably done. If the motor gets hot it will usually shut off because it has a thermostat inside to protect it. A motor that was normally working ok and suddenly gets hot may have a bad run capacitor. The run capacitor is a round or flat silver can rated at 5 to 7.5 Mfd (micro farads) for most 208-230 volt motors. To test a run capacitor use this test chart NEVER an ohm meter. If this is the case you can usually just replace the capacitor and your problems may go away. Only single phase motors have run capacitors, three phase motors do not. Some motors for belt drive applications will have a start capacitor but no run capacitor. Some larger motors will have both.

When you replace a motor keep in mind that fans for outdoor use will usually be sealed up and motors for indoor use will be open. An open motor can have a higher rating than one that is closed because of the air flowing over the windings. As far as ratings are concerned do not replace a motor with one of a smaller horsepower ratting but know that a larger motor will waste energy because motors are most efficient when loaded to 80- 90%. Warning: some OEM (original equipment manufacture) motors will have lower name plate ratings that the actual ratting, EX: a 1/2 HP motor may actually be 3/4. If your fan blade is 24 inches or larger you should use a 900 (850, 825) rpm motor.